Leeson Motors: What I Wish I'd Known Before My First Order (and What You Should Know)

You've Got Questions? I've Got (Painfully Earned) Answers

I'm a senior applications engineer handling motor orders for about 12 years now. I've personally made (and documented) over 30 significant mistakes, totaling roughly $47,000 in wasted budget. Now I maintain our team's checklist so others don't repeat my errors. This FAQ covers the stuff I wish someone had told me before my first Leeson order.

1. Are Leeson motors any good? Or are they just a budget brand?

Short answer: they're solid mid-range workhorses. I've seen them used in pumps, conveyors, fans – you name it. When I compared a Leeson 1.5 HP motor and a Baldor side by side in 2022 (same spec, same load), the Leeson ran a bit noisier but performance was basically identical for most applications. The price difference? About 15-20% less for the Leeson. If you don't need ultra-quiet or extreme duty cycles, they're a no-brainer. But don't expect Baldor-level quietness at 1800 RPM.

2. What's the difference between a Leeson pump motor and a regular motor?

This is where I made my $3,200 mistake in 2021. I ordered standard motors for a pump application because they were cheaper. The pump motors have a special shaft seal and a longer shaft extension for direct coupling. The regular ones? The shaft might be too short or not have the right flat. Leeson uses a 'P' suffix in the model number for pump motors. Check it. I now add 'P' to every pump-related purchase request. Saved me from re-ordering at least four times since.

3. I keep hearing about Leeson Washguard motors. Are they just regular motors with paint?

That's what I thought too – until I saw the inside of one we'd returned. Washguard motors have sealed leads, a special epoxy coating on the windings, and stainless steel hardware. They're designed for washdown environments (food processing, car washes). Regular motors will corrode and fail in months. I learned this the hard way when a standard motor died after three weeks in a poultry plant. The Washguard version cost 30% more upfront but lasted 5 years. The lesson: don't skimp if there's water or high-pressure washdown – even if the budget says otherwise.

4. What exactly is a double helical gear? And why should I care?

I'm not 100% sure about the physics behind it, but I know the practical benefit. A double helical gear (or herringbone gear) has two sets of teeth angled in opposite directions. That cancels out axial thrust – meaning less load on bearings and smoother operation. I once subbed in a standard helical gearbox because it was $400 cheaper. The vibration was way worse. I had to swap it out within a month. For high-torque or high-speed applications, the double helical design is worth the premium. Leeson offers them in some of their gearmotor lines. Check the product specs – it's usually listed as 'double helical stage'.

5. Servo motors and drives – are they hard to set up?

Honestly? They're not plug-and-play. I remember my first servo drive installation in 2019 – I tuned the PID gains by guesswork and the motor oscillated like crazy. I had to call the Leeson tech support twice. The key is to follow the setup guide step by step. Leeson servo drives have a default auto-tuning function that works for most loads. But if you change the load (like adding a heavy gearbox), you'll need to re-tune. Pro tip: save the configuration file before making changes. I've wiped out settings more times than I can count. Also make sure you match the encoder type – I once ordered a servo motor with a 17-bit absolute encoder but the drive expected a standard incremental. That was a $1,200 mistake and a 3-week delay.

6. What's a VFD? I'm seeing it everywhere.

VFD stands for Variable Frequency Drive. It controls motor speed by changing the frequency and voltage supplied to the motor. I used to think VFDs were overkill for simple fans and pumps. Then I saw a plant that ran their pumps full speed all day – they were throttling flow with valves. After installing a VFD, their energy bill dropped 35% in Q3 2024 alone. For Leeson motors, you can pair them with most common VFD brands. Just make sure the motor is rated for inverter duty (look for 'inverter rated' on the nameplate). I have a checklist I made after that pump job – one item is 'motor must have NEMA MG1 Part 31 insulation'. That's the standard for VFD compatibility. And don't forget to disable the line reactor? Not always necessary, but I skip it once and had a drive failure within 6 months. Now I always add one for long cable runs.

7. Can I use a VFD with a Washguard motor?

Short answer: yes, but read the fine print. Leeson Washguard motors are usually inverter-rated, but the cable connections must be sealed properly. I had a customer who installed a VFD on a Washguard motor in a wet location – they used standard unsealed cable glands. Corrosion got inside the junction box within a year. The VFD itself didn't fail, but the motor's insulation degraded. According to FTC advertising guidelines (ftc.gov), manufacturers must substantiate claims like 'rated for washdown with VFD'. Leeson does provide that data – check their spec sheets for 'VFD Duty Washdown' rating. Otherwise, you might void the warranty. I'd rather spend 10 minutes verifying specs than deal with mismatched expectations later. An informed customer asks better questions and makes faster decisions.

8. What's the biggest mistake people make when ordering Leeson motors? (Bonus question you didn't ask but should)

Assuming you know the exact frame size. I once ordered a 1.5 HP motor in a 56C frame – standard for pump applications. But the customer's pump had a 56HC frame (larger shaft diameter). The exchange cost me $90 in restocking plus shipping. Now I always ask: 'Can you send me a photo of the nameplate? Or the shaft diameter and flange pattern?' That's saved our team at least $2,500 in the past 18 months. The other classic: forgetting to specify the winding voltage. Leeson motors are dual voltage (like 208-230/460V). If you order a motor for 460V but your plant runs 230V, you'll need to reconnect the leads. Not a huge deal, but if you aren't prepared, it can cause a production delay. I keep a simple checklist taped to my desk – 'Voltage? Frame? Mounting? Inverter duty? Washdown?' I can't count how many errors that's prevented.

Hope this saves you some of the pain I went through. If you've got other questions, drop them below – I'll add to my list.